Bulgogi Meatballs

Prep the marinade and sauce. In a glass measuring cup (or small bowl), mix together the soy sauce, brown sugar, garlic, sesame oil, and mirin (if using).

Mix the meatballs. Preheat the broiler (or, if you don't have one, preheat the oven to the highest temperature setting). Pour half of the marinade into a large bowl (reserving the other half for the dipping sauce). Sprinkle the breadcrumbs on top, and give it a stir. Then add the ground beef and scallions, and mix it all together with clean hands. Try to combine the marinade, breadcrumbs, and meat as evenly as possible, but don't overwork it. Stop as soon as it's pretty well combined.

Roll the balls. Scoop up 1 tablespoon of meat and, using both hands, gently roll it into a ball. Don't smush or overwork it, but roll it just until it holds a nice, round shape. It should be between the size of a gumball and ping-pong ball, about 1 inch in diameter. Place on a baking sheet, and keep rolling! Leave about an inch in between each meatball.

Broil the meatballs. When the baking sheet is full, pop it under the preheated broiler. Check the meatballs after 6 minutes to see if they are browned. If they are browning nicely, carefully grab one with a pair of tongs and break it. If the inside is uniform in color and texture, it's cooked through. If it's not, give them a couple more minutes. Ideally, you'll get a nice char on the top without overcooking them.

Make the dipping sauce. While your meatballs are broiling, pour the remaining marinade into a small saucepan over medium-high heat. Make a cornstarch slurry by combining the cornstarch with 1 teaspoon of water in a very small bowl. Stir it into the reserved marinade and bring it up to a boil, stirring constantly. After it comes to a boil, reduce the heat to low, keeping it warm until you're ready to serve.

Serve. If serving as hors d'oeuvres for passing, stick a toothpick into each meatball and arrange them on a flat platter with a small bowl of the dipping sauce—or drizzle a little sauce over each one. If you're serving them at the table, pile the meatballs on a platter, with the dipping sauce and toothpicks on the side. If you're serving them as a main course, you can plate or serve them family-style with rice and sautéed Asian vegetables, sliced cucumbers, or a platter of crispy lettuces for wrapping. If using the optional chive, sesame seed, and chili flake garnishes, add them at the end.

Optional prep: the meatballs can be prepped in advance. If you want to make the meatballs in advance and freeze them for quick meals later, bake them at 400°F (rather than broil them), until just gently cooked through but not charred. (Start checking for doneness after about 8 minutes by cutting into one and looking for a uniform color and texture. The colder the meat is and the larger the meatballs are, the longer they will take to cook.) They can be cooled and frozen at that point. Before serving, thaw in the refrigerator and broil for a few minutes to reheat and char them a bit.